Award winning professional photographer based in Maldon Essex, specialising In boudoir, fashion and portraits
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Have a great week and hope to catch you next week with another post and video !
The photography community got hit pretty hard when the uk was his with the coronavirus.
When people couldn’t come together, it made being a photographer pretty void. We couldn’t do wedding, birthday parties, family or single person portraits and couldn’t keep doing our main income of corporate headshots.
So a number of amazing photographers had to diversify into other forms of photography. To keep their business afloat.
Me being one!
It’s not a hard transition if I’m completely honest! As long as you know your gear and understand the basics of composition then a lot of it falls into place pretty fast.
I think I was very lucky to have a good array of different lenses, That would suit both portrait and landscape photography. As I own zoom and prime lenses with every focal length from 10mm to 900mm so i feel I was in a good place to take the plunge with landscape photography.
So I headed out on what was to be a fun journey of landscape exploration and documentation.
Along the way it’s taken some side steps not only have I found amazing places to photograph but also beautiful seascapes, shipwrecks even cityscapes.
In the last two years I’ve seen and captured some amazing images. From sunsets to blue moons, old barges and rundown buildings that are part of our history but will never be re built. But tell stories of years gone by.
I’ve seen my images in local news papers, in magazines, printed on show stands at photography shows for companies like fujifilm. Even been part of a gallery exhibition.
All these things I couldn’t have dreamt of being a part of without becoming a landscape photographer.
Over the next few months I will adding new images and sharing more of what I’m doing on here so I hope to get your support and feedback
So Two years on and I now have a passion for landscape and where it can take me. And now I’m branching out. So that many more people can be part of my journey. I’m opening a small online store so that people can purchase my images as digital downloads and also printed photography products. At a low price.
And at the same time support me on my journey if you wish to know more /make a purchase click the button below it will take you there
What you can expect to find over the coming weeks
Please if you have gotten this far please click follow to see updates as we will be posting new product listings as we add them to our shop. And also you can see some of our new amazing images first.
New video now up streaming with the pictures from the maldon classic car show.
This is a short snippet of what I got on the day. But the images in this video I whole heartedly love! So
If you have a moment or 26seconds would love to have your support. Just click the thumbnail below to head over and watch it.. if you can watch the whole 26 seconds and then if you like it hit the like button.. as this really does help my very small channel.
Photography is an art form that has evolved over time with the advancement of technology. One of the essential aspects of photography is ISO, which determines the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor to light. ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization, which sets the standard for sensitivity ratings in photography.
In this short post we will discuss what ISO is and how it works and categorize it into three categories: basic, in-depth, and advanced understanding.
Firstly three images .. starting from 100 in picture one 3200 in picture 2 and 6400 in picture three. to see the way images have less detail and also more noise the higher the ISO
Basic understanding of ISO:
ISO is a measure of the camera’s sensitivity to light. The lower the ISO number, the less sensitive the camera is to light, and the higher the number, the more sensitive it is. In simple terms, ISO determines how bright or dark an image will appear. For instance, a low ISO number of 100 will produce a darker image, while a higher ISO number of 800 will produce a brighter image.
In-depth understanding of ISO:
ISO is one of the three essential elements of exposure, along with aperture and shutter speed. Aperture refers to the size of the opening in the lens that allows light to enter, while shutter speed is the duration of time the shutter remains open. ISO plays a vital role in exposure because it allows the photographer to adjust the camera’s sensitivity to light to achieve the desired exposure.
A low ISO setting is ideal for shooting in bright conditions, such as outdoors on a sunny day. On the other hand, a high ISO setting is suitable for shooting in low light conditions, such as indoors or at night. However, a high ISO setting can introduce digital noise or graininess to an image, which can result in a loss of detail and clarity. It’s essential to strike a balance between the ISO setting, aperture, and shutter speed to achieve the best exposure and image quality.
Advanced understanding of ISO:
In addition to its role in exposure, ISO can also affect the overall mood and style of an image. A low ISO setting can produce a sharper and cleaner image with less noise, while a high ISO setting can create a grainy or gritty look, which can be desirable in certain types of photography, such as street or documentary photography.
Another advanced technique is ISO bracketing, which involves taking multiple shots of the same scene with different ISO settings. This technique is useful for capturing images in unpredictable lighting conditions, such as during a sunset or sunrise, where the light changes quickly. By taking multiple shots at different ISO settings, the photographer can choose the best exposure and eliminate any unwanted noise or graininess.
In conclusion, ISO is an essential aspect of photography that determines the camera’s sensitivity to light. It plays a vital role in exposure, image quality, and overall style and mood of an image. Understanding the basic, in-depth, and advanced aspects of ISO can help photographers make informed decisions when setting up their camera and capturing their vision.
This is part of basic learning with photography. There are more technical details to iso but I don’t want these posts to resemble a ikea instruction manual lol! And more make it a simple understandable read.
Low light photography can be a challenging but rewarding experience. It requires a combination of technical knowledge and creative thinking to capture beautiful and unique images in dimly lit environments. In this essay, we will explore some tips and techniques for getting the best results from your camera in low light situations, and how to avoid common pitfalls that lead to blurry
images.
The first step in low light photography is to understand the limitations of your camera. Most cameras perform best in bright light, and as the light level decreases, the camera’s ability to capture sharp and detailed images also decreases. This is because the camera’s sensor needs a certain amount of light to function properly, and in low light situations, the sensor may not be able to gather enough light to produce a clear image.
To compensate for this, you will need to use a longer shutter speed, which allows more light to reach the sensor. However, using a longer shutter speed also increases the risk of camera shake, which can result in blurry images. To avoid this, you will need to use a tripod or some other form of support to keep your camera steady. Additionally, you can use the self-timer function on your camera to avoid camera shake caused by pressing the shutter button.
Another way to increase the amount of light reaching the sensor is to use a wider aperture. Aperture is the opening in the lens that controls how much light reaches the sensor. By using a wider aperture, more light can enter the camera and reach the sensor. However, this also affects the depth of field, which is the area of the image that is in focus. A wider aperture will result in a shallower depth of field, which can be useful for creating a sense of depth and separation in your images.
Another important aspect of low light photography is ISO. ISO is a measure of the camera’s sensitivity to light. The lower the ISO, the less sensitive the camera is to light and the less noise in the image. However, in low light situations, you may need to use a higher ISO to get a well-exposed image. But, as you increase the ISO, you will also increase the amount of noise in the image, which can be unsightly. So, it’s a balance between having a well-exposed image and having noise in the image.
In addition to adjusting these technical settings, you can also use creative techniques to enhance your low light images. For example, you can use a flashlight or other light source to illuminate specific areas of the image. You can also use long exposures to capture the movement of light in the scene. This can create interesting and dynamic images that are not possible in bright light.
In conclusion, low light photography can be a challenging but rewarding experience. It requires a combination of technical knowledge and creative thinking to capture beautiful and unique images in dimly lit environments. By understanding the limitations of your camera, using a tripod or other form of support, adjusting the aperture, ISO and shutter speed, and using creative techniques, you can get the best results from your camera in low light situations and avoid the common pitfalls that lead to blurry images.
This is My Ten simple tips to create beautiful lighting that flatters for professional photos or perfect selfies
1: Use natural light whenever possible.
Natural light is often the most flattering and easiest to work with. Putting your subject in the right place at the right time of day with natural light can be the softest lighting to work with, and most effective.
2: Experiment with different times of day.
The quality of light can change significantly depending on the time of day, so try shooting at different times to see what works best for you or your subject.
3: Use reflectors or a white card to bounce light back onto the subject.
This can help fill in shadows and add dimension to the subject. Bring out a glow to the eyes and under the chin to make an image more appealing to the eye.
4: Experiment with different light sources.
In addition to natural light, you can also use artificial light sources such as studio strobes or continuous lights. Even a simple ring light can be a creative tool or a small video light will add a pop to your pictures.
5: Pay attention to the direction of the light.
Light that is coming from the side or from behind the subject can create a more dramatic effect, sometimes a bright light from behind will result in a more silhouetted looking image.
6: Use diffusers to soften the light.
This can help reduce harsh shadows and make the light more flattering to the subject. A simple white sheet over a window will give a soft touch to any image.
7: Avoid shooting directly into the sun.
This can create harsh shadows and cause lens flare and in turn make the images soft with less contrast. Though this rule isn’t always bad. It can also be creative if used in the correct environment .
8: Use negative fill to create shadows. By placing a dark object near the subject, you can create shadows and add depth to the image.
If you have a very light room from natural light through a window or a white bedroom this idea will be great, even a dark sheet/ blind or black card will reduce some light giving more depth to a subject.
9: Experiment with different apertures. Aperture controls the amount of light that enters the camera, as well as the depth of field.
This can be found on all manual settings in camera or on smartphones. This is perfect to add a little creative look when using a low F number ..
10: Keep an eye on the colour temperature of the light. Different light sources can cast different color temperatures, which can affect the overall mood of the image. Use a colour checker or white balance tools to help ensure accurate colour. For instance house lighting and sunlight can produce a warm tone to an image.. where a window lit by indirect light or even a snow scene will have a cooler more white look..
Please remember that these are my personal tips, we all have our own ideas. There’s nothing wrong with using a bunch of the above methods and then in your preferred editing software creating something much more refined or dramatic.
Let me know what you try and how it works out for you.
Follow me on here or on Instagram http://www.instagram.com/adriandayphotography to see more !
This is my Five reasons I love my 85mm lens it’s one of my bread and butter lenses.
1: It’s great for Portrait photography:
The 85mm focal length is ideal for portrait photography because it allows you to capture flattering, up-close shots of your subject without distorting their features. This is especially useful for capturing headshots and full-body portraits.
2: Bokeh:
The 85mm lens is known for its ability to produce beautiful, creamy bokeh in the background of your photos. This is especially useful for isolating your subject and drawing attention to them.
3: Low light performance:
Many 85mm lenses have a wide maximum aperture, which allows them to perform well in low light situations. This makes them a great choice for indoor photography or for shooting at dusk or dawn.
4: Compact size:
85mm lenses are generally smaller and more lightweight than other lenses, making them a convenient choice for photographers on the go.
5: Versatility:
While the 85mm lens is often used for portraits, it can also be used for a variety of other subjects, including landscape, street, and event photography. It’s a versatile lens that can be used in many different situations. The 85mm is always with me!
In closing:
So, in all honesty this lens is one lens I would recommend any photographer purchasing.
These days the 85mm 1.8 isn’t that expensive and if you’re a multi shooting photographer who likes shooting landscapes events or models, this lens would pay for its self ! Low cost, high quality prime lens that will get plenty of use!
To finish … if you’re a photographer or someone just starting out. And own an 85mm lens let me know in the comments if you agree that it’s worthwhile buying one..
Okay help me out here? I’ve been a photographer for many years in fact this year – I’m hitting 25 years, So most would say that I’m pretty old school.
Now, I do a number of styles of photography; landscapes, Fine art, Seascapes in the formats that I sell. Then there are the formats like Weddings, portraits, boudoir, lifestyle and locations shoots that I’m paid to do.
Over the years along with the photography I’ve tried to do it where I post on my blog and also show a little of who I am and what I do, maybe even what I could be doing for you, the client.
This has been great, But over the last few months I have seen a vast decline in interactions on blog posts and also website views have decreased. this could be that life is starting to get back to normality what with covid restrictions being lifted or less and less people are interested in reading blogs
Looking at research from the leading social media’s such as facebook, tiktok and instagram its looking like more and more people are switching over to short form video content because life is super busy and we can flick through 50 videos faster than reading a few lines of written content.
QUESTION ? HAVE YOU READ THIS FAR..
If you have answered yes well I would like to say a
big thank you ..
See I’ve never been one to get in front of a camera .. hey I’m the photographer not a good looking subject, person or object.
This post is really a question to those who actually read and maybe come across some of my images.
Do you enjoy blogs? would you want to see more interactive posts on Adrian Day Photography?
leave me a comment below i would love to interact with real people and followers
Also if you have a moment could you answer a poll for me …
okay guys thank you for reading this post and I hope to hear from you on this subject .. keep eyes out for more posts coming soon as we have some new products coming up for sale .
Hey guys and girls just a quick message to let you all know that there is a very short video just been posted !
Please go show a little support and follow like subscribe!
Let me know what you think of the images !
YouTube post click here to go see it !
I did this as a personal project video ! And a very stupidly a last minute thing ! By last minute I mean I walked up to the gates at 7:28 and the fireworks started at 7:30.
Only to find out that there was no ticket left and I couldn’t enter the actual event I would need to find a vantage point in some way ! In just 2 minutes!!
So I made a dash for it .. to the only point I could think this may even be possible.
I dodged down a dark alley and into the sea wall. To be greeted by many onlookers who had the same issue and thought as me to get to the only vantage point and we was all greeted by a metal fence.. not the best. but time to make the best I can with the situation .. I pulled out the gimbal and set up just time to press the record button and test and it was counting down five three two bang !!! Video started and held high to get over the people !
Not the best place that’s for sure but I managed to capture what I could see ! Lucky fireworks go high! So over head wasn’t an issue!
There is one thing I will take from this for next year! Forward planning .. head to the event two hours before. Set up video ! And get the best camera angle before everyone gets there!
I know this video is raw run and gun style but I still captured the 20 minute full fire work show and it was a pretty good show ! Better than other years and I will say it was louder than other years too!
So here you go check out the video below if you like it or just want to support my video please share like subscribe I really need your help to get this video seen and heard 🙂
Hope you liked it!
Adrian Day Photography 